近期，DB采访了常德汉焙咖啡工坊的常务总经理Isabel Sum。这家咖啡工坊是德国的优质咖啡在国外发展的首家公司。DB recently spoke with Isabel Sum of the Hanover Coffee Manufactory in Changde, who is Chief Operating Officer of the premium coffee business’s first location outside of its home country of Germany.
DB: 您和创建汉焙咖啡工坊的Berndt一家是怎么相识的？How did you first meet the Berndt family, who founded Hanover coffee?
My first contact with the Berndt family was when I met Fabian in university. We studied together, and I remember one time seeing him giving two cups of coffee to a fellow student and became curious. I found out that they were doing a spontaneous coffee tasting. I was immediately impressed by the expertise that Fabian had, and of course by the very pleasant taste of the coffee he offered me. So, I got into speciality coffee more and more, and got to know the whole family.
The company was founded in 2012 by his father Andreas, Fabian, and his younger brother Flemming. Andreas had roasted coffee beans as a hobby and for his own consumption as long as he can remember. After having a successful career as a marketing director at renown breweries in Germany he wanted to turn his passion into his new job and built up a speciality coffee roastery.
DB: 为什么中国成为了汉焙咖啡工坊海外分店的第一个选择呢？Why was China chosen for Hanover Coffee’s first overseas branch?
Since 2012, the roastery in Germany has experienced massive success and has grown to a production volume of around 100 tons per year in 2017. However, it’s still a small to medium-sized family business so the next step according to the business plan would surely not have been to expand to China. Basically, an opportunity presented itself. A delegation from Changde was visiting our manufactory in Hanover and were really impressed by the concept. They mentioned that they´re building a German Town and we started brainstorming about building a second roastery in China.
All conditions were right in Changde as we have a nice production location and of course a lot of support from our local partners. This was necessary as importing green coffee beans and a beautifully refurbished vintage Probat roasting machine (that weighs over a ton) can be quite difficult to import to China due to the strict customs regulations.
DB: 您能跟我们谈谈汉焙咖啡工坊的烘焙方式吗，为什么说它是独一无二的？Tell me about Hanover Coffee’s roasting method. Why is it unique?
Our roasting method is so unique because over the past 25 years Andreas has travelled Europe to learn about different roasting techniques & styles, and has developed a unique recipe that combines all that he considers the advantages in the different roasts.
The result is a long-term drum roast at low temperatures. This is a traditional way of roasting in middle Europe, also known as the Vienna roast. The advantages are clear: the long roasting time (minimum over 15 minutes) decomposes the naturally occurring chlorogenic acids that are in the coffee bean. For sensitive people these can cause an upset stomach or digestive problems.
However, if you take enough time for the roast, these fall apart into their chemical components and won’t bother you anymore. This way of roasting gives us a very mild and easily digestible coffee packed with delicious aromas.
DB: 你们在广东省内的商业发展计划是怎样的呢？What are your plans for promoting business in the Guangdong province?
As coffee is a real sensual pleasure, we want to do a lot of coffee tastings & bars in the Guangdong province to really let people experience the coffee aromas and fragrances in person. Here, we work with a lot of partners ranging from corporate events to festivals and food and health exhibitions.
DB: 你一直是咖啡的忠实爱好者吗？Have you always been a big coffee fan?
Funnily enough I hated coffee before I met Fabian. I was one of those people who never really understood the big deal about drinking coffee, for me it just tasted bad and I didn´t know why I should be obliged to drink it just because everyone else does.I really laugh at this today because I meet so many people who tell me that they don’t like the taste of coffee. I always ask them: “Ah okay, so which coffee don´t you like specifically? Is it the sweet, full-bodied Ethiopian bean, the citric Kenyan coffees or rather the caramelly, chocolatey aromas of the Brazilian bean?”
It’s just the same with every food product: bad quality tastes bad and good quality has just so much more to offer and most people will like it. Compare it to burgers – most people would agree that fast food burgers aren’t at all delicious and rather disgusting with their soggy bread, browned salad leaves and fat-dripping meats. However most people would like gourmet burgers with high quality, tasty meat, a freshly baked homemade bun with sesame topping and some fresh organic vegetables and nicely melted cheese. So, you can’t really generally say “I don’t like burgers” or “I don’t like coffee”. It’s just that many people have never even tried good coffee as most of the available beans on the market are industrially-produced.
DB: 你喝什么咖啡？How do you take your coffee?
Right now, my favourite coffee preparation is the American Press. It looks like a French press, but it has a different technique where the water is forced through the coffee grounds in a small pod, resulting in a strong, full-bodied and aromatic cup with the advantage of the fine nuances of a manual coffee preparation.
If that’s not available, I’ll have a pour-over or an Americano. I never have milk in my coffees, but don´t get me wrong, that can be incredibly delicious as well! Coffee is not about rules or regulations, just enjoy it how you like it!
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